I’ve always used my table saw, the blade that is on it, and marked the joint then using the slide guide just cut in moving the stock the thickness of the blade, until the joint is cut.
Works for me, every time, and probably takes less than 2 minutes.
Obviously you can use any of your suggestions, and/or get a dado blade for the table saw.
Table saw and tenon jig. Most are micro-adjustable to tweak that last little bit.
Router is too tippy on the end of a board and you have to work from the same side (with tenon jig, you can reference off the same surface so you can get around any stock thickness variation.
Band saw never cuts precisely straight for me, so lots of work with a shoulder plane to clean it all up.
Multiple repetitive cuts…table saw
Most accurate…router
Least waste…band saw
Most proud of the work you’ve done…hand cut with a kobuki saw
For me most of my cuts are with hard wood such as maple. As long as it’s not a thru tenon [viewable when complete] I prefer the bandsaw. Set up is minimal. The surface reamining has great little ridges that glue up well.
12. July 2010 at 7:13 am
I’ve always used my table saw, the blade that is on it, and marked the joint then using the slide guide just cut in moving the stock the thickness of the blade, until the joint is cut.
Works for me, every time, and probably takes less than 2 minutes.
Obviously you can use any of your suggestions, and/or get a dado blade for the table saw.
Steven Wolf
12. July 2010 at 7:13 am
most likely a router, there is also a jig/rig for table saw you could buy, check a bigger hardware store if you might be interested
12. July 2010 at 7:13 am
I HAVE A TENON JIG FOR MY TABLE SAW. Cap lock was stuck.
12. July 2010 at 7:13 am
I Use a table saw and a tenon jig. its much Faster and more accurate. The router is OK but its noise and vibration are more than I like.
Good luck
12. July 2010 at 7:13 am
i made my own jig for the table saw.i also use my bandsaw. always leave a bit larger for fine tuning with a sharp chisle.
12. July 2010 at 7:13 am
Table saw and tenon jig. Most are micro-adjustable to tweak that last little bit.
Router is too tippy on the end of a board and you have to work from the same side (with tenon jig, you can reference off the same surface so you can get around any stock thickness variation.
Band saw never cuts precisely straight for me, so lots of work with a shoulder plane to clean it all up.
12. July 2010 at 7:13 am
That depends on what your definition of is is.
Multiple repetitive cuts…table saw
Most accurate…router
Least waste…band saw
Most proud of the work you’ve done…hand cut with a kobuki saw
For me most of my cuts are with hard wood such as maple. As long as it’s not a thru tenon [viewable when complete] I prefer the bandsaw. Set up is minimal. The surface reamining has great little ridges that glue up well.
12. July 2010 at 7:13 am
I use a jig with my tablesaw. I’ve done the router and bandsaw but so far, prefer the way I’m doing it now.